Enter current, voltage, and phase to calculate apparent power in volt-amps (VA).
How to Use the Amps to VA Calculator
Current in amps, voltage in volts, and a Single-Phase/Three-Phase toggle — the same three fields as the Amps to kVA calculator, just returning the answer in volt-amps instead of kilovolt-amps.
Single-phase: VA = V × I
Three-phase: VA = √3 × V × I
10A at 230V single-phase gives 2,300 VA — identical math to 2.3 kVA, just written with three extra zeros instead of a decimal point and a "k" prefix. Nothing about the underlying relationship changes; only the scale of the number you're reading off does.
Where this version actually earns its own page is nameplate ratings. Look at a laptop charger, a router, or a small UPS and the power spec is almost always printed in VA, not kVA — a 5 kVA generator makes sense as a unit, but a 65 VA laptop adapter written as "0.065 kVA" would be an odd way to label a small appliance. VA is the practical unit once you're down at device scale rather than building or facility scale, which is also why manufacturers use it: an appliance rated for 300 VA at 120V draws roughly 2.5A, and that's the number that actually matters for picking a compatible outlet, extension cord, or small inverter.
Same caveat as the kVA version applies here too: this is apparent power, not real power. A device's VA rating on its nameplate typically sits somewhat above its actual wattage in use, for the same power-factor reasons covered on the Amps to kW page.
Three-phase VA does turn up occasionally — small three-phase pumps and control-panel equipment get specced this way — but it's the exception. Most things small enough to have a VA rating printed on them are single-phase to begin with, which is why the single-phase number is the one worth checking first if a spec sheet doesn't say.